How Cuba Dies

My Grandfather’s Memory Is Fading, and So Is My Family Connection to the Island

When I was 23, I strapped a backpack on my shoulders and took off for Europe. It was exactly the kind of backpacking trip you think of a 23-year-old taking, except my traveling companion wasn’t a boyfriend or my college cohorts. It was my jovial, lively, 80-year-old grandfather.

And it was something of a homecoming. My grandfather was born in Spain in 1923 and escaped Franco’s regime by crossing the Pyrenees on foot with his brother in his early teens. Finding himself in Paris in the middle of World War II, …

More In: The Voyage Home

Dribbling My Way Into Acceptance In Westlake

Basketball With the Tough Guys At Lafayette Park Was How I Made My Neighborhood Home

A few years ago, I moved to Westlake, a ridiculously high-density, low-income neighborhood just west of downtown Los Angeles. It’s home to one of the city’s largest Central American communities …

‘Rampture’ Is Just the Latest Front In My War With Lucifer

Taking On the Dark Lord Caltrans, One Miserable Surface Street At a Time

Whoever invents commuting monikers in Los Angeles seems to prefer religious themes. Pundits dubbed last year’s weekend-long closure of the 405 Freeway “Carmageddon.” They’ve named the closure of Wilshire Boulevard …

The Germany I Could Not Hate

It Was the Place That Exiled and Killed My Ancestors, But It Felt Like Home

From the moment I settled into my window seat on a plane destined for Frankfurt, it was a vacation riddled with contradictory feelings. My dad’s business trip this past July …

Frolicking Underground in Carlsbad

My Childhood Summer Home in the Desert Is All-American, Right Down to the Plutonium

My first time going caving was almost my last. I was in Carlsbad, New Mexico, with my mother, who’d grown up there. My mother is exponentially braver than I am, …

Why I Ate Your Garbage

My Triumphs and Trials as the Glendale Bear

Over the spring and summer months of 2012, the city of Glendale has had repeated visits from a mysterious black bear with a love of suburban ranch houses, frozen meatballs, …