Are India’s Elephants Blessed Creatures or Indentured Servants?

Photographs of Majestic Animals Caught Between Two Roles—and Two Eras

In 2011, I visited the magnificent Amber Fort in Jaipur, in the Rajasthan region of India. The beautiful Hindu-style architecture of the fort is adorned with large ramparts and cobbled paths that overlook Maota Lake, where elephants give tourists rides. I was enchanted watching these majestic animals as they slowly and meticulously walked among people and cars without a glance sideways. They were dignified and elegant, and I was fascinated by the textures in their skin, large tusks, and flapping ears.

When a guide invited me to see a newborn …

300 Million Women and Girls in India Don’t Have Access to Toilets

Relieving Themselves Outside Leaves Them Vulnerable to Disease and Rape. But a New Movement Has Started to Demand Better Sanitation

I remember the women so clearly. They were sitting cross-legged, and they were making bricks. Because I was there in their small hamlet somewhere in India’s western Orissa state to …

Learning the Twist in New Delhi

Growing Up American in India Instilled in Me a Deep Curiosity About Foreign Lands—Including My Own

I grew up in India from the age of 4 to 14. Every two years, my family traveled back to the States on “home leave.” Via Europe or through Hong …

Does America Have the World’s Worst Movie Theaters?

A Mexican Company Is Building Luxury Cineplexes in India. If We're Lucky, They Might Change Movie-Going for All of Us in the Process.

Improbable though it sounds, many people in India looking to splurge on a night out at a luxury movie theater entrust their rupees to a Mexican theater operator: Cinépolis.

“When we …

Why Does India’s Supreme Court Want Me Back in the Closet?

After Four Years of Sexual Freedom, It’s Once Again a Crime to Be Gay in India

Last Tuesday, India’s Supreme Court reinstated a law that has turned me, along with millions of other Indians, into a sexual criminal.

Four years ago, a lower court decision struck down …